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Palmitoyl tripeptide-38: uses and the limits of the evidence

Clinical review pending

What is known about Matrixyl synthe’6 in skin care products and why the effect of the peptide on its own has so far been hard to judge.

What is palmitoyl tripeptide-38?

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 consists of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid, which is meant to help it penetrate the skin. As a matrikine-like signal peptide, it is intended to mimic sequences from the skin’s supporting proteins. Sederma makes it under the trade name Matrixyl synthe’6. It is used as an active ingredient in its own right and is not part of the Matrixyl 3000 active blend. It is a cosmetic ingredient, not a medicine. Source Source

How does it work?

Lab studies describe palmitoyl tripeptide-38 as a signal meant to prompt skin cells to build new supplies of several components of the extracellular matrix. The name “synthe’6” refers to the manufacturer’s claim that it stimulates six components that give the skin structure or cushioning:

  • Collagen types I, III and IV.

  • Fibronectin.

  • Hyaluronic acid.

  • Laminin.

The intended result is a skin surface that looks smoother and firmer.

These claims rest on lab and manufacturer findings. The claimed effect on six components in particular comes from research by the ingredient’s manufacturer. For finished cosmetics, the benefit is described as a change in appearance, such as less visible wrinkles.

Is the ingredient FDA-approved?

No. For the cosmetic use described here, drug approval does not apply. The FDA does not approve cosmetic ingredients in advance. A cosmetic may describe effects on how the skin looks. A claim to rebuild the body’s own tissue, on the other hand, would classify the product as a drug. Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is used cosmetically to change the appearance of the skin.

What is it used for?

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is found in “anti-aging” serums and creams. These are meant to make forehead lines, crow’s feet and other wrinkles less visible and to make the skin look smoother and firmer.

What does the research show?

The direct evidence is limited. An open-label human study indexed on PubMed 1 tested a serum containing palmitoyl tripeptide-38 along with vitamins C and E. Over about two months, it reported reduced skin roughness and an improved skin appearance. However, the serum also contained a high concentration of vitamin C, which can have an effect of its own. There was also no control group. So the peptide’s contribution cannot be isolated. The remaining efficacy data come from manufacturer studies. The source article did not find an independent controlled study of the ingredient on its own. Source

What side effects are known?

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is mostly described as well tolerated by the skin. The study of the combination serum mentioned above also reported no notable adverse reactions. If your skin is sensitive or reacts easily, testing on a small area first may make sense, as with other new products.

References provided in the source article

Sources: an open-label study of a vitamin-and-peptide serum (Lintner et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020, DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13770 1 ), indexed on PubMed; and manufacturer and cosmetic ingredient reference data on Matrixyl synthe’6.

Provenance and editorial review status

Adapted for Nutrient Desk from the source article. The claims and source attributions in the original text still require clinical review. This draft has not been cleared for indexing.