Copper tripeptide-1 in skin care: what GHK-Cu may offer
Clinical review pending
GHK-Cu is used in cosmetics for smoother, firmer-looking skin. Its mechanisms have been studied more extensively than the effects of finished products.
What is copper tripeptide-1?
Copper tripeptide-1 consists of the amino acids glycine, histidine and lysine, which form a peptide bound to a copper ion. The peptide portion is called GHK, occurs naturally in the body and declines with age. In its copper-bound form, GHK-Cu, it is among the copper peptides that have long been studied in skin care. It is used in cosmetics marketed for skin renewal and regeneration. The use described here is cosmetic. Source
How is copper tripeptide supposed to work?
Laboratory studies suggest that copper tripeptide-1 encourages skin cells to renew the supporting tissue matrix. Cell and animal studies 1 have described the following effects of GHK-Cu:
- It stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans. These molecules give skin its structure and bind water.
- It affects the regulation of enzymes that break down this matrix.
- It supplies copper, which is involved in tissue repair.
- Antioxidant properties and support for wound healing have been observed in animal models.
Reviews describe further effects from cell and animal experiments. Gene-expression studies 2 associate GHK with anti-inflammatory effects, increased blood-vessel formation and changes in numerous repair-related genes. These systemic, preclinical findings cannot be transferred directly to the topical use of a cosmetic product.
Because of these properties, GHK-Cu is included in products intended to make skin look firmer, smoother and more even. The mechanisms described come from laboratory and animal studies. For finished cosmetics, claimed benefits concern the appearance of skin, not medical tissue repair.
Is copper tripeptide FDA-approved?
According to the source text, drug approval is not required for the cosmetic use discussed here. The US Food and Drug Administration does not preapprove cosmetic ingredients as it does medicines. Cosmetic claims may concern appearance and how skin feels. Claims about changing the body’s structure or function, by contrast, can lead to classification as a drug. Copper tripeptide-1 is considered here as an ingredient for improving the appearance of skin.
What is it used for?
Copper tripeptide-1 appears in anti-aging serums, creams and care products used after cosmetic procedures, as well as in some hair and scalp products. These products aim to make skin appear firmer and denser, soften the appearance of fine lines and smooth the surface. Products used after cosmetic treatments may also claim to leave skin looking calmer.
What do the studies show?
The mechanisms have been studied extensively; independent clinical data on visible skin changes are much more limited. Reviews indexed in PubMed 3 summarize numerous laboratory and animal studies in which GHK-Cu promoted matrix formation and wound healing. Many of these studies, however, have connections to commercial developers of the ingredient.
An independent randomized trial involving 13 people 4 examined GHK-Cu skin care after CO2 laser treatment. Blinded assessors found no statistically significant difference in redness or skin quality. Participants themselves, however, rated their overall skin quality more favorably (p = 0.04). Reliable independent evidence for a visible cosmetic benefit therefore remains limited.
Some animal studies have also examined injected GHK-Cu. These systemic, preclinical findings are summarized in the table below.
Both studies were conducted in animals. They do not establish an effect of systemic use in humans.
What side effects are possible?
Copper tripeptide-1 is generally well tolerated on the skin. Very high copper concentrations can cause irritation. Strong acids, such as highly concentrated vitamin C or certain exfoliants, can destabilize the ingredient when products are layered. According to the source text, this mainly concerns formulation and effectiveness. Sensitive skin can react to any new product, so cautiously testing it on a small area may be useful. Source
Studies at a glance
| Animal model | Finding |
|---|---|
| Rats after knee-ligament reconstruction | Weekly joint injections for 4 weeks [5] reduced the difference in knee-joint laxity relative to saline at 6 weeks (p = 0.009). The difference was no longer significant at 12 weeks. |
| Mice with lipopolysaccharide-induced acute lung injury | GHK-Cu reduced TNF-alpha and IL-6 by inhibiting NF-κB p65 and p38 MAPK [6]. |
References cited in the source text
Sources: review articles on GHK-Cu biology (Pickart and Margolina, BioMed Research International, 2015, DOI: 10.1155/2015/648108 1; Pickart, Journal of Biomaterials Science, 2008, DOI: 10.1163/156856208784909435 3); and an independent randomized post-laser trial (Miller et al., Archives of Facial Plastic Surgery, 2006, DOI: 10.1001/archfaci.8.4.252 4), all indexed on PubMed.
Provenance and editorial review status
Adapted for Nutrient Desk from the source article. The claims and source attributions in the original text still require clinical review. This draft has not been cleared for indexing.